How To Shelving

Check out this How To Shelving project…

If you’re looking for a post on how to build closet shelves then you’ve come to the right spot. In this post, I’m going to walk you, step by step through the process of building some cool shelving for one of my customers.

I began the project by removing everything from the space so I could get some measurements and a plan for my closet shelving. Since this closet was in a play room, I need to create some shelving that little ones could access with ease and provide higher, out-of-the-way storage for Mom and Dad’s stuff.

This was a good size closet measuring about 65 inches by 40 inches. It was pretty beat-up so figured that some wall repair and some paint would be in order once I finished.

Since the closet was once part of the garage, there were some well pump plumbing to deal with. No big deal, I just need to make sure that if the pipes ever needed repair… a plumber could get to them with ease.

Before I begin with the how-to steps, here’s what you’re going to need:

• Two foot / four-foot level
• Marking pencil
• Stud Finder
• Table saw
• Circular saw
• Impact driver
• Drill
• pocket hole tool
• jig saw
• 6″ drywall knife
• Paint brush & roller
• 2 x 4 lumber
• 3/4 inch cabinet grade plywood
• self drilling wood screws (or drywall screw if you’re on a budget)
• Drywall patching mud
• Paint

Step One:

Clear out the closet and plan your shelving configuration. This closet had 8 foot ceilings so I decided to install 5 closet shelves. The first two shelves, from the bottom are 16 inches apart. The next two above are 12 inches apart and the top shelve is about 16 inches from the ceiling.

Once you have your measurements, draw lay-out lines onto the closet walls. Each line represents the top of each shelf. Drawing the lines out will give you a good idea of how the shelves will look and if you need to make any adjustments.

Make sure you use a level to draw you lines. On the short walls, I used a two foot level and a four-foot level on the longer back wall. This will ensure your shelves are nice and straight. Don’t be tempted to measure up from the floor… I’d hate for you floors to be un-even and therefore making your shelves un-even as well.

Once you have your layout lines in place you’re ready to move on to step two.

Step Two:

Run a stud finder along the layout lines and mark the location of each stud. Marking each stud will make  install the shelf bracing go smoothly. Drilling the screws directly into the wall studs beneath is the most secure method of installing closet shelves.

If you can’t find a stud to mount the bracing to, the next best thing is to use toggle bolt or snap toggler to ensure you have a secure base to mount your closet shelves to.

The next thing is to cut and mount your closet shelve bracing.

Step Three:

Since the door to my closet was almost the same size as the closet itself, I had to rip some plywood and install it at the opening of the closet to give me the rap-around effect I wanted.

I had to remove the inside door casing moulding so the plywood could be mounted flush with the inside of the closet wall.

With the plywood fronts installed, I took 2 x 4′s and ripped them down to 3/4′s  of an inch to use as bracing for the shelves. Line up the top edge of the bracing with the layout line and screw them into the studs you marked in the previous step.

Work your way around the closet until all the bracing is installed. Now is a good time to make any wall repairs (if you haven’t already done so) before the shelving goes in and makes it more difficult to reach.

Once you have all the bracing installed you’re ready to cut and install your shelves.

Step Four:

Since homes are almost never square, it’s a good idea to measure each shelve (twice) and then make your cuts. These shelves were no different and I had measurements that were as much as 1/2 inch off.

I used cabinet grade plywood because it’s the strongest and will take paint very well. You could use regular plywood with a rougher finish or MDF which is my last choice here because the shelves are pretty large and MDF may bow under heavy loads

Use graph paper to layout your cuts on the plywood before making any cuts. This will allow you to use ever inch of plywood because it doesn’t come cheap.

Once I had the sides cut, I placed them on the braces and screwed them in place. Make sure you put a screw in brace about 12 inches apart from each other. Once I got all the sides in I’m ready to measure and cut the middle shelves.

Step Five:

Just like in the last step, I measured all the shelves, did my layout and made the cuts.

To secure the middle shelves, I drilled pocket holes in the bottom where they attach to the side shelves and screwed them into the side shelves and the back brace.

When securing the middle shelve to the sides, make sure to clamp them together when inserting the screw through the pocket holes to maintain a perfect alignment between the shelves surface

I put four pocket holes per side and added glue added strength. Like the other shelves, I put screws in the back brace on each end and at least every 12 inches in-between.

At this point the middle shelves may seem to week to hold anything but stick with me… I’m not done yet.

Step Six:

On the bottom shelve I added a brace on the leading edge that went from left side to the right side brace. I secured this brace by screwing from the top which adds strength to the bottom unit.

This bottom brace will be support for the rest of the shelves once a middle brace that runs vertically on the front of the middle shelving is installed.

The middle brace is the same size as the trim pieces that will be installed in the next step. I’m using 3/4 inch by 1 inch pine boards.

To give each middle shelves more surface area to screw the vertical brace to, I installed a short brace under each shelf.

This brace was the same size as the other braces and the width of each shelf.  Secure the brace by screwing it from the top. Once these are in you have added surface area to secure the middle vertical brace.

For the middle brace… I again glued and screw it to each shelf. This will add more stability and strength that the middle shelves lacked.

Step Seven:

Now I’m ready to install the trim around all the shelves. Just like the rest of the project, I measured each piece, before cutting, to make sure I had a perfect fit. Once I had all the trim installed I was ready to prime and paint my new closet organizer.

I hope this gives you some ideas for your how to shelving