Storage Shed Doors

Storage-Shed-Doors

Build-my-own-shed

storage shed doors

To build storage-shed-doors you could use traditional door construction like tongue & groove joints but hey… it’s a shed. Here’s the Keeping-it-simple-stupid (KISS) method.

Your first consideration is in keeping the door’s design flowing with the shed’s outside appearance. In other words, use the same materials you used on the siding and add some support. Since my shed has T1-11 siding, the door flows nicely, constructed with T1-11 and some OSB support framing.

Notice the support framing is on the outside and once it’s painted it trims out the doors nicely. The trim on either side is attached to the door’s framing VIA a piano hinge.

The support members also over-lap the T1-11 siding about a 1/2 inch so that the door lays flat against the structure. There is also a 3/8th inch gap between the doors.

The shed-kit’s instructions were easy to follow. The doors came pre-assembled with the piano hinge already attached to the outer trim piece.

To hang the doors on the shed, lay the two halves on a flat surface. The gap between the doors is 3/8th inch.

Once the doors are lined up correctly, screw some scrap pieces of 2 by material to both halves as shown in the shed-kit’s instructions. Once the screws are secure, it’s time to hang the doors.

Hanging the doors is easy once they are secured together. Simply line them up in the rough opening, level the top and screw the outside trim piece on either side into the door’s rough framing.

After they are secure, place the top trim piece on and you’re done.

Building Z-Framed Doors

The Z-frame is a logical choice for sheds with vertical boards used for siding. Here’s how to make-um:

• Lay the boards out face up and placing them so their order is cosmetically pleasing.
• Next, flip them face down, flush with one-another and place the bracing as shown in the picture above.
• Secure the bracing with nails or screws (stainless works best) that are just long enough to “NOT” protrude
  through the combined thickness of the door and bracing (you don’t want them to poke through).
• It’s not a bad idea to use glue to the backs of the braces for added support. Use a polyurethane glue, their better for
  outside applications where the joint will be exposed to moisture.